Can a mattress protector be washed after a long time of use? If so, how to wash it correctly

1. How often should this thing be washed? Don't wait until it turns yellow before you regret it

General operation (a must-have for lazy people): Don't be too Buddhist! Washing it once every 1 to 2 months is the bottom line. It protects you from sweat, dust and dandruff every day, and it is really not made of iron. Do you sweat a lot in summer or when you sleep? Don't be vague about washing it once a month, otherwise you will hate the smell after a long time.

See it dirty? Wash it immediately! Don't delay! If you encounter these situations, don't wait for "next time together", take it down and deal with it immediately:

"Flooding Jinshan" type: Children wet the bed, drinks are spilled, water cups are overturned... As long as liquid penetrates, don't hesitate!

"Color pollution" type: Food residue is stained, cosmetics are rubbed, menstrual leakage/wound blood is stained... These things are more difficult to deal with when they are completely dry

"Furry/allergy" type: After your pet rolls on the bed, or when you have a runny nose and tears during the spring pollen allergy season, it doesn't hurt to wash it more frequently, which is good for you and the cover.

2. A cleaning method that even clumsy people can handle

Washing this thing really doesn't require much technical skills, just remember a few steps:

Be the first to strike (pre-treat dirty spots):

Just got liquid on it? Hurry up and get a clean towel/paper towel and press hard! Dry the surface moisture, and don't rub it back and forth, the more you rub, the deeper it will penetrate!

Already dried stains (blood stains, food oil stains)? Don't panic! Get some cold water (hot or warm water will coagulate the blood stain protein, making it more difficult to wash!) Gently pat the stained area, or use a special stain removal pre-treatment spray (see the instructions for use), and wait a few minutes for it to decompose. For blood stains, cold water + a little salt or hydrogen peroxide (try it in an inconspicuous place first, be careful of bleaching) and patting it works very well.

Washing machine war (closed eyes operation):

Zip well! Don't let the filling inside run out and get mixed up during washing.

Select the program gently: Use gentle mode such as "gentle wash" or "synthetic fiber wash". Don't use strong wash or high temperature boiling wash, which can easily damage the waterproof membrane or cause the filling to clump.

Don't use too high water temperature: cold water or warm water (no more than 30-40°C) is the safest. High temperature is the enemy of waterproof coatings and some elastic materials.

Just enough detergent: pour ordinary neutral detergent. Try not to use fancy things such as bleach and softener, especially chlorine bleach, which can make the waterproof layer scrapped or make the fabric brittle in minutes. Softener may also block the vents.

Don't fill it too full: Let it have space to roll in the drum. If the cover is particularly thick or your washing machine is small, it is best to wash it separately.

Air drying is the key to success (a critical step!):

Natural drying is the first choice: Take it out immediately after washing, don't let it get stinky in the washing machine! It is safest to hang it in a ventilated and cool place to air dry naturally. Do not expose it to the sun! Excessive exposure to the sun will cause aging, brittleness and cracking even for the best waterproof membranes and elastic materials.

Want to use a dryer? Take it easy! If the label clearly says that it can be dried, and you have patience:

Use the lowest setting (no hot air/cold air) to dry it slowly.

Put a few clean tennis balls or dryer balls in to help beat the filling to prevent clumping.

Check it diligently: After drying for a while, stop and touch it. Take it out when it feels almost dry, but do not over-dry it. Using high temperature to bake will shorten the life of the protective cover!

Summary of blood and tears experience:

Read the label before washing! No matter how lazy you are, take 5 seconds to look at the icons and instructions on the washing label. This is the "official cheats". If there is a washing machine with a cross on it, then you can only wash it by hand or scrub it (this is rare).

Timely washing is the best way! If stains and liquids are left for a long time, even gods can't save them.

Low temperature and gentleness are the core! Whether washing or drying, low temperature + gentle mode can ensure your protective cover "longevity".

Don't be superstitious about additives! Ordinary laundry detergent is enough, and bleaching agent softener is just a hindrance.

3. Wash the protective cover? You can wash it by hand or by machine, but you have to know the method!

① Wash it in the washing machine (the first choice for those who save effort)

The zipper is tightly closed! Before washing, all zippers on the protective cover must be tightened and fastened. Otherwise, it will hook other clothes or machines during washing and tear them in minutes.

Set the washing machine to "gentle mode" + cold water! Choose the gentlest mode on the washing machine (such as "wool wash" or "gentle wash"), and the water temperature must not be high. Cold water or warm water that does not feel cold to the touch will do (not more than 30℃). Hot water is the enemy of the waterproof layer!

Use the most common laundry detergent! Just pour some neutral laundry detergent, and never use bleaching ingredients, whitening, or softener! These things specifically harm the waterproof coating (such as TPU, PVC and other materials), and they will not be waterproof after washing.

When washing in a washing machine, don't step on these minefields:

High water temperature? Finished! The waterproof layer will be destroyed if soaked in high-temperature water. Just wait for water leakage after washing.

Too full? No! Wash the protective cover separately, don't mix it with the sheets and quilt covers for the sake of convenience. If it is too full, it will not be clean and easy to tear.

Drying in the dryer? It's a death wish! Don't rush to throw it in the dryer after washing. I will tell you how to dry it later.

② Rub it by hand (suitable for small areas of dirt or no washing machine)

Soak it for ten minutes first! Find a basin filled with cold water (still not hot!), soak the protective cover in it, soak it for about 10 minutes, and wash it after the dirt is loosened.

Don't rub it, press it gently! Focus on rubbing the dirty places (such as urine stains and sweat marks), and wash other places with your palms gently. Don't rub or twist it hard like twisting a twist! If it is deformed and can't be put on the mattress, you will cry.

Rinse it clean, and don't leave any foam! Rinse repeatedly with plenty of cold water until no detergent bubbles can be seen in the water. Residual detergent will also damage the material.

4. Drying is a technical job! If you dry it wrong, it will be scrapped!

Dry naturally (safest and preferred!)

Hang the cleaned mattress protector up or lay it flat in a cool place! Find a ventilated place at home that is not exposed to direct sunlight. You can lay it flat on the clothes rack or hang it up by clipping the edges.

Key point: avoid the sun! Sun exposure? That's the death warrant of the waterproof coating! If the coating is exposed to too much sun, it will age, become brittle and crack. Waterproof? Dream on it.

Want to use a dryer? (Better safe than sorry)

First check the label to see if it allows drying! Not all protective covers can be put into the dryer, check the washing label first to confirm.

Only the lowest temperature can be turned on! Even if you can dry it, you can only use the lowest temperature setting of the dryer (it should feel warm to the touch, definitely not hot, and should not exceed 50℃).

The time should be short! Drying for 20-30 minutes is enough, the main thing is to get rid of most of the moisture, not to dry it thoroughly.

Put two tennis balls or wool balls in! Throw a few clean tennis balls or special wool dryer balls into the machine when drying. They bounce around in it to break up the shield, prevent it from curling up or clumping, and dry more evenly.

Don't dry it completely! It doesn't matter if it still feels a little damp after drying. It's safer to take it out and hang it in a cool place to dry naturally.

Drying in the dryer, a deadly operation:

Turn on high temperature? It's over! High temperature drying is the ultimate killer of waterproof coatings (especially TPU/PVC). It will crack and shrink in minutes and directly scrap it. This money is wasted!

5. Special materials? Scrap them if you wash them wrong!

Not all protective pads can be thrown into the washing machine! The material determines the way to take care of them:

With a waterproof layer (TPU/PVC):

It can be washed, but there are many rules: cold water machine washing is the safest, don't use hot water.

Killers to avoid: bleach and softener! These two ruthless things are specifically used to eat waterproof coatings, and they will leak out like a sieve after washing. Clean water + mild laundry detergent will do the trick.

Wool/down stuffed (high-end goods):

Don't get it wet! Don't get it wet! Don't get it wet! I say it three times. It will become hard after washing, and the fluffy warmth will be gone, just like a rag dried in the sun.

The right way: Spend money to find a professional dry cleaner! Save this little money? Wait for a new one.

Memory foam/latex pad (the layer directly attached to the mattress):

Washing machine? Don't even think about it! Manufacturers (such as Beloit) have explicitly prohibited it. It will be useless if soaked in water, and it can't be saved by drying in the sun.

The only way out: Dirty? Apply some water and mild detergent to the part and wipe gently! After wiping, quickly wipe it with a dry cloth, don't let it soak in the bath.

6. Want to use it for a few more years? Keep up with the maintenance!

Don't wait until it's dirty like a map before you remember it! Do it daily, and the life span will increase:

Vacuum it every week: Take a vacuum cleaner (preferably with a mite removal head) and walk it all over the body to sweep away all the dust, mites and debris. Did you save this step? Dirt gets stuck in it and it can't be washed clean.

Turn it over/turn it every six months: Turn it over like a pancake (DreamCloud also teaches this), so that the pressure is even, don't always rub one place, it will break easily if it is rubbed thinly.

Put it away? Dry it thoroughly first! When not in use, be sure to dry it thoroughly before folding it, and put it in a cool and dry place. Put it away when it's damp? Congratulations on getting a musty gift bag, and it may even grow mushrooms!

Don't use it as a bench! Don't pile heavy objects on the creases, especially the folds. If they are pressed for a long time, they will be shaped and bulge when you make the bed. It is ugly and uncomfortable (Purple's bitter lesson).

7. Don't force it when it's time to change! When will it retire?

The protective pad is not a family heirloom! If these signs appear, replace it with a new one:

Function failure: It is said to be waterproof, but urine directly seeps into the mattress (heartbreaking sound); the edges are loose and inelastic, and it cannot be laid flat; holes and tears are visible; or there is a stale smell after washing and drying (sweat + moldy mixture), which cannot be removed.

Regular lifespan:

Ordinary models: 2-3 years is enough.

More expensive and waterproof models: If well maintained, they can last up to 5 years (Beloit laboratory data), but don't expect it to last longer, and you have to change it when it's time to change it.